Published on July 15, 2025

In the heart of the French Riviera, there is a city that tends to get overshadowed by its flashier neighbors, such as Monaco, St.-Tropez, and Antibes: Nice. But for those who simply breeze through, they are missing out on what makes this Mediterranean gem so special. Though most tourists make a beeline for more famous resort towns, Nice’s timeless glamour, active culture, and emerging culinary scene are attracting visitors old and new.
The gateway to the French Riviera, Nice has for centuries been a refuge for travelers drawn to the sun-kissed Mediterranean coastline. But it has long been seen as little more than a transit point on the path to the more glamorous ports of call that have arisen around it. Now that perception is evolving, as a generation of new travelers rediscovers the city’s low-key charm. Nice, with its marvelous blend of old-world charm and new-world planning, is once more the distinct Riviera de rigueur if you are seeking an authentic experience of the legendary coastline.
The Allure of New Nice: A Blend of the Old and the New
The charm of Nice lies in its ability to seamlessly combine the old and the new. The city, which dates back to 350 B.C., has always been a hub for cultural exchange and artistic expression. From the early days of the European aristocracy, who flocked to Nice for its mild winters, to the more modern influx of visitors, the city’s history is rich and varied.
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One of the most exciting aspects of Nice’s resurgence is the emergence of a more refined and sophisticated energy, particularly in the heart of Old Nice. The narrow streets of the old town, typically filled with souvenir shops and street performers, are now home to chic restaurants, boutique shops, and trendy bars that cater to a younger, more discerning crowd. Places like Lavomatique, a cozy vegetarian bistro, and Frisson, an ice cream parlor-cum-concept store, reflect the city’s newfound energy, where creativity and tradition coexist harmoniously.
Hôtel du Couvent: A New Chapter for Historic Elegance
At the heart of this transformation is the Hôtel du Couvent, an 88-room property housed in a 17th-century former convent on Castle Hill. The hotel’s meticulous restoration, led by financier-turned-hotelier Valéry Grégo, has brought new life to the historic building, blending modern amenities with the austere beauty of its monastic origins. The hotel’s serene design and exceptional attention to detail make it one of the standout properties in Nice, attracting both those looking for a peaceful retreat and those eager to experience the city’s new sophisticated side.
From the moment you step into the hotel’s courtyard, surrounded by tiered gardens and ancient stone buildings, it’s clear that this is no ordinary hotel. Guests are greeted with a freshly baked madeleine at check-in and are guided through the property’s various offerings, including an on-site bakery, library, and even an apothecary. The décor, with its taupe tones and carefully curated vintage touches, creates an ambiance of understated elegance. It’s a place where history and modern luxury intersect, offering a truly unique experience for those seeking to explore Nice beyond its tourist-heavy reputation.
A Culinary Awakening in the Heart of Nice
Nice’s food scene is undergoing a renaissance, with new restaurants and cafés offering a refreshing twist on classic Mediterranean fare. The city’s culinary scene has long been known for its focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, but today’s offerings go far beyond the traditional Niçoise salad. At establishments like Maison Joia, a contemporary French restaurant that combines regional flavors with innovative techniques, diners can enjoy dishes crafted from the finest local ingredients, including Corsican cheese and Portuguese bakery bread.
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Nice’s vibrant food culture also extends to its street-level eateries. At Fanfan & Loulou, a wine bar born from the pandemic’s challenges, patrons can enjoy a carefully curated selection of natural wines while engaging in lively conversations about the city’s transformation. The café’s owners, Fanny Vedreine and Louis Girodet, have embraced Nice’s community spirit, offering a space where locals and visitors can gather and share their experiences.
Even the humble boulangeries in Nice have experienced a renaissance. Marinette, a bright and welcoming bakery, is known for its mouthwatering cinnamon rolls, which have quickly become a local favorite. These simple pleasures reflect the city’s evolving identity, where old traditions are revived and reinterpreted for a new generation.
A Place to Explore and Enjoy
The rejuvenation of Nice extends beyond its food scene and hotels. The city itself is brimming with life, and its cultural offerings continue to attract visitors looking for a taste of authentic French Riviera living. From its lively markets to the colorful cafés lining the Promenade des Anglais, Nice offers something for everyone. Whether you’re strolling through the old town, enjoying a coffee at a local café, or taking in a performance at the Théâtre National de Nice, the city provides a welcoming atmosphere where both locals and tourists can enjoy the beauty of the French Riviera without the overwhelming crowds found in other nearby resorts.
One of the most surprising aspects of Nice’s resurgence is the sense of community that has emerged in the city’s core. Many of the new establishments are deeply rooted in the local culture, with owners and staff often from the area, eager to share their love for the city and its traditions. The result is a vibrant, diverse, and inclusive atmosphere that stands in stark contrast to the overly commercialized feel of some of the more famous spots along the Riviera.
Embracing the True Essence of Nice
In fact, in many ways, Nice is a city that refuses to be what you expect. It doesn’t try to emulate the luxury of Monaco or the glamour of St.-Tropez. It does not attempt to be an offshoot of Cannes to the west; rather, it has its own identity, a less pressured and unreal aspect of the French Riviera. As the city has continued in the spotlight, it has managed to stay true to itself, yet has also evolved to cater to the needs of a new generation of travellers.
Nice is no longer just a gateway to the glitzier destinations of the Riviera — it’s quite a destination itself. Regardless of whether you are discovering its chic boutiques, tasting its culinary delights, or just basking in the Mediterranean radiance, Nice is a city that encourages you to stop and smell the roses, enjoy life at its prettiest pace. It’s a city with just the right blend of old and new, and one that is proving to be the dark horse of the French Riviera.
(Source: Nice Tourism, Hôtel du Couvent, French Riviera Travel Reports)
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Sunday, November 30, 2025
Sunday, November 30, 2025