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TikTok food tourists leave a bitter taste in Amsterdam

Monday, September 11, 2023

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While the number of tourists appears to be back at peak 2019 levels, Amsterdammers complain that many appear more inspired by Instagrammable food, lazy bike rides and “window shopping” in the red light district than by the city’s top hotels, museums and galleries.

Some are particularly concerned about social media-influenced flash crowds in places used to a meandering stream.

Outside Fabel Friet, a notice asks customers “kindly to respect our neighbours by not eating your fries in front of their houses” while Brenned Tieman on security duty asks tourists to move to the canal to eat their fries with “war” sauce (mayo, satay and onions).

Although Fabel Friet started promoting itself during the pandemic with viral TikTok clips handcutting chips or magically forming them into the shop’s name, co-founder Floris Feilzer would prefer a Michelin star to social media fame.

At Chun cafe, owners Melissa Cheung and Kelvin Chan see things slightly differently: they feel social media – they use Instagram – gives small businesses a democratic and inclusive channel for promotion.

But despite the efforts of both businesses to be good neighbours, around the corner on the Keizersgracht – the most expensive street in the Netherlands some are unhappy. Multiple signs in windows and on stairs read: “No picnic: please do not sit here.”

A local business owner, who asked not to be named, believes takeaways belong in the red light district.

Amsterdam city council points out it is a worldwide trend that because of social media, certain places and products are visited more for visitors to film or photograph themselves and share and says it is ensuring businesses reduce nuisance and keeping a close eye on developments.

A national law may give councils more power to control soaring numbers of fast food outlets.

According to Dr Joris Demmers, associate professor and head of the marketing department at Amsterdam University’s business school, flash crowds are not good for businesses.

It’s like a plague of locusts: people come, they overwhelm a place, business owners may have capacity problems, they start to think about hiring more people, but a week later they’ve all gone.

It’s hard to get a sustainable source of income.

He adds that although social media may feel more “authentic”, it fosters a monoculture since algorithms promote what was successful in the past.

Back in the queue for what Fabel Friet aims to make “the tastiest chips in Amsterdam”, this is what British tourists Olive Kennington and George Heading have done, asking the owner of their boat trip where to eat.

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