Kenya, Zambia, and Côte d’Ivoire Highlight New Challenges of Intra-African Travel with High Costs and Strict Visa Rules

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Travelling within Africa has long been viewed as a challenge, not only for tourists but also for artists, entrepreneurs, and everyday citizens. Despite the continent’s population of 1.4 billion and the promises of regional trade blocs and ambitious infrastructure plans, the dream of seamless intra-African travel remains distant. Instead, many travellers face visa hurdles, exorbitant flight costs, and complex border procedures, making even short journeys difficult and expensive.

The Experience of Coco Em

Kenyan DJ Coco Em, whose real name is Emma Mbeke Nzioka, often spends as much time planning her travel across Africa as she does curating her music sets. In November of last year, she was scheduled to perform in Cape Verde, an archipelago off the coast of West Africa. To get there, she had to take a route through Europe, as no direct African flight connections were available.

Armed with a valid one-year Schengen visa and a return ticket booked with another airline, Coco Em was confident her journey would be straightforward. However, at the airport, she was unexpectedly stopped from boarding. Airline staff deemed her a potential flight risk and demanded that she purchase a return ticket with the same airline she was departing on. She questioned this requirement, asking where such a rule was stated, but no explanation was given. Instead, she was presented with an ultimatum: pay within fifteen minutes or miss the flight. Refusing to comply, she returned home, frustrated and disheartened.

This incident is not unique to Coco Em. Countless Africans face similar travel complications, whether they are artists seeking performance opportunities, businesspeople working across borders, or families visiting relatives.

A System Burdened by Outdated Models

Coco Em has openly expressed frustration over outdated movement restrictions that limit opportunities for Africans. She believes these policies harm local economies rather than protect them. People travelling for leisure or work bring value by spending money, sharing skills, and fostering connections. However, restrictive visa systems and inefficient processes continue to discourage such movement.

The African Union (AU) attempted to address this issue by introducing a continental passport in July 2016, designed to allow visa-free travel across Africa. Unfortunately, this passport remains largely symbolic, available only to AU officials and select diplomats. Even prominent figures such as Aliko Dangote, Africa’s richest man, have struggled with visa access. In 2023, Dangote publicly complained that while his British associates could enter certain countries with ease, he, despite his wealth and status, still faced obstacles and lengthy debates over his visa applications.

Limited Visa-Free Access

Currently, only a handful of countries — Benin, Kenya, Seychelles, and the Gambia — offer visa-free entry to all African passport holders. Although regional blocs exist to encourage freedom of movement, implementation is inconsistent.

On a recent journey to the Gambia, it was observed that Senegalese and Gambian citizens were allowed to pass through borders without fees, while travellers from Nigeria and Sierra Leone were required to pay unrecorded amounts ranging from 1,000 to 2,000 CFA (£1.30 to £2.60). Such discrepancies highlight the fragmented approach to border management.

The High Cost of Travel

Financial challenges compound these bureaucratic barriers. Flight costs within Africa are notoriously high, often defying logic. For instance, a flight between Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire’s largest city, and Accra, the capital of Ghana, takes only about an hour. Yet, the price for this short journey can reach $500 (£368), the same cost as far longer international flights.

In contrast, neighbouring countries such as Zambia and the Democratic Republic of the Congo share a border stretching 1,449 miles. Travellers crossing between the two nations are required to purchase separate $50 (£36.80) visas for each side, effectively doubling costs.

Activist Joseph Kalimbwe from Zambia pointed out another troubling dynamic: African immigration officers often target fellow Africans more strictly than they do foreign residents. In Lusaka, for example, Chinese and Indian expatriates are rarely subjected to the same scrutiny that Africans from nations like Burundi or the DRC experience.

A Long-Standing Dream of Seamless Travel

Efforts to simplify African travel date back decades. In 1998, ministers adopted the Yamoussoukro Decision, a landmark agreement aimed at lowering airline ticket prices and improving connectivity. However, nearly three decades later, the agreement remains far from full implementation. High airport taxes, limited routes, and persistent visa challenges continue to hinder its goals.

Similarly, the African Continental Free Trade Area (AfCFTA) was launched in 2021 with the ambition of boosting trade and facilitating the free movement of goods and people. While progress has been made, full implementation has yet to be achieved.

Slow Progress Toward Open Skies

The Single African Air Transport Market (SAATM), launched in 2018, was built upon the Yamoussoukro framework and has been signed by more than 35 countries. Its objective is to fully open the skies to participating nations, allowing airlines to operate freely across borders. If successfully implemented, SAATM could significantly reduce travel costs and increase route availability.

However, progress remains slow, with many countries hesitant to relinquish control over their national airlines and airspace. As a result, African travellers continue to face expensive flights and limited options.

The Human Impact

These travel barriers are more than just logistical inconveniences. For creatives like Coco Em, they represent missed opportunities. In 2019, she had to travel through Saudi Arabia and Italy just to reach Tunisia for a performance. During that journey, she was even asked by airline employees to perform on the spot to prove her identity as a DJ.

Her experience reflects the everyday struggles of countless Africans whose professional and personal aspirations are affected by restrictive systems.

Steps Toward Change

Despite these challenges, there are signs of hope. Some African governments are experimenting with new visa policies to encourage tourism and cross-border collaboration. The expansion of SAATM and other regional initiatives offers a pathway toward greater connectivity and affordability.

Meanwhile, individuals are stepping up to create grassroots solutions. Coco Em founded Pass Pass, an initiative dedicated to researching systemic travel barriers and helping visa applicants navigate complex processes. Recently, Pass Pass partnered with Unseen Nairobi, a space for film, theatre, and dining, to launch Vuka Mpaka, meaning cross the border in Kiswahili. This program connects Kenyan creatives with artists from other African nations, fostering cultural exchange and collaboration.

Building a Future of Seamless Travel

Coco Em has shifted her focus from frustration to problem-solving. While venting about challenges may bring temporary relief, she believes long-term change will only come through collective action and innovative thinking.

The dream of seamless intra-African travel is still alive, though it remains distant. Through sustained policy reforms, investments in infrastructure, and grassroots initiatives like Pass Pass, there is hope that future generations will enjoy the freedom of movement long promised but not yet fully realised.

Final Thoughts

As Africa continues to grow economically and culturally, the need for efficient, affordable, and accessible travel within the continent becomes more urgent. Outdated systems and costly barriers currently prevent millions from reaching their full potential.

By addressing visa complications, reducing flight costs, and fostering regional cooperation, African nations can unlock the vast opportunities that seamless travel would bring. Until then, stories like Coco Em’s will continue to reflect the struggles of navigating borders that remain more closed than open.